Fascia boards and eave lining are the first timber to fail when gutters block or drainage fails. I replace what's gone and treat what's borderline before it becomes a much bigger job.
Fascia boards sit directly behind the guttering — exactly where water overflows when gutters block. In Melbourne's Bayside suburbs, leaf debris from large street trees is a constant problem, causing gutters to back up and overflow onto the fascia beneath. A single blocked downpipe can saturate a 3-metre run of fascia in one heavy rain event.
Eave lining — the horizontal timber panels that close off the underside of the roofline — is vulnerable on a different axis. It faces upward, trapping moisture between itself and the roofing structure. Once rot establishes there, it often spreads to the rafter ends and fascia simultaneously.
Fascia replacement is straightforward when caught early. I remove the gutter, cut back to sound timber, replace the damaged board with H3 treated pine cut to match the existing profile, refix the gutter and seal all joints. The whole job is usually done in a day.
When rafter ends are involved, the scope increases — but it's still a manageable repair compared to what happens if you leave it. Rotten rafter ends compromise the structural connection between the roof and the wall, and that's where a repair becomes a renovation.
According to WoodSolutions, H3 treated pine is the industry-standard specification for fascia applications — above-ground exterior use with periodic wetting — and it's what I use on every fascia replacement job.
If your fascia has rotted, your gutters are part of the problem. I'll clear and check them as part of the job — there's no point putting new timber behind a gutter that's going to overflow onto it again.
Fill in the form and attach a few photos of the damage. I'll take a look and get back to you with a rough price — usually within a day or two.